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[Let's RACE.]

Make sure you are free on Saturday August 7th for best retro enduro ever. And, of course, immediately following the race the traditional cook-out and BS session. DON'T MISS IT !

Saturday August 7th

Open 8:00am
Tech 9:00am till 10:00am
Race 11:00am

After action BS session/cookout will start immediately after the race. This year we are going to try something a bit different. Year one saw eight 45 minute heats. Last year we changed it to sixteen 22.5 minute heats. This year we will be trying twenty-four 15 minute heats with each racer splitting each lane equally. This will eliminate "lane specialists" and force everyone to run every lane. Always trying to tweak the format for improvement.

If you have a team PLEASE let me know ASAP as we are filling up faster than ever before.

Let's RACE.

Store Opens - 10:00am
Tech Opens - 12:00pm
Racing Starts - 1:00pm

Classes:

Retro Pro
Retro F1
ALMS

Store Opens - 8:00am

TBA

Store Opens - 10:00am
Tech Opens - 12:00pm
Racing Starts - 1:00pm

Classes:

Retro Can-Am
Retro Flexi
Retro Pro

The R4/4 will be held on March 11th, 12th, and 13th 2011

Much more info to come. You don't want to miss this one!

With the release of the MR03 and the fact that my kids are now old enough to race, and driving me nuts about it,  I am checking to see if there is any interest in getting mini z racing going at Tom Thumb again. I've still got two MR02s in the shop would love to get them back out on the RCP. 

Next up is probably the hardest part of the whole build. Bending up the motor bracket. This is were I start doing things a little different. I screw and old motor onto the bracket and then solder the bouttom edge.



Now use your pliers and line up the end of them like the picture and bend the first side and repeat on the other end.



Use your square to check your work, It's very important to take your time on this step.

I thought I would share how I build the Slick 7 4 rail can am chassis.
The kit contains the brass pan, guide spacer, and motor bracket in a sheet that will need cut apart and the edges filed. Also included is the guide tongue and body mount tubes. The directions that come with the kitare well writen but I have found a couple things that help speed up the build. Here is a pic of the parts.



Start buy taking your chassis jig with the chassis laying on it. mark the two pin locating pins. Drill two .063 holes in the jig and install two pieces of brass or steel wire. Now line up the chassis with the pins and fit the guide spacer in place. Apply plenty of acid flux and using 60/40 rosin solder and plenty of heat, solder the pieces together. Make dure the solder flows between the pieces. Next remove any solder that may have gotten on the top of the guide spacer.



Now Sand and  fit the guide tongue in the same way as the guide spacer. You may need to use a small screwdriver to keep the piece from moving.Use plenty of heat so that the solder flows. You should be able to see the solder between the pieces looking at the front of the chassis.



With this done now it's time to bend the front axle uprights up along with the body mounts and bite bar. Using linemens pliers, bend the front axle uprights up into place. It works best if you line the the end of the pliers up with the edge of the bottum of the upright. Use a sqaure to check your work. Bend the body mounts and bite bar maounts with needle nose pliers.





Here is a pic of what you should have so far.

...More pics

Here is some more pic's.